The gulf ends at Capo Bellavista,
which is situated soon after the port of Arbatax on
whose wharfs large "mural seascapes" similar to those of
large oceanic ports can be clearly seen. The shadows that fall on the sea
from the red cliffs that hug the left wharf at the entrance of the port, are very picturesque
especially at sunset. Arbatax is also the terminus for the small trains that run over the
mountains to Lanusei and Arzana.
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Small steam train |
Barisardo - Tower of Barì |
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Do not be afraid of getting lost in
Arbatax's narrow side streets. Follow the smell of food in order to find the right restaurant to
taste a fried seafood platter or the classic "porchetto" (suckling pig) roasted as the shepherds
do.
After Capo Bellavista the coast of Ogliastra suddenly seems to soften and presents large bays
with fine grained sandy beaches such as the beaches of Orri and Tortolì. At Tortolì the
imposing Tower of Barì, clearly of Aragonese architecture, can be seen. These constructions
are very frequent along the coast of Sardinia. They were built by the Spanish during their 4
centuries of domination that has left a deep impression both in the customs and in the
language of Sardinian people. |
Having spoken about gastronomy
we would like to give some advice to gourmets. Before leaving this area you should try some
of the local fish specialities such as the delicious mullet's eggs, called "bottarga"
(in the Sardinian language) and the fresh fish of the fish farms among which the eels, bass,
dory and the tasty mussels are the most famous.
Sailing southward, especially when driven along by the North-North West winds under the
protection of Monte Ferru (which is very long but only 875 metres high) provides the
opportunity for a relaxing day close to the shore to enjoy the transparency of these waters.
In Marina di Gairo there is the white beach of Su Sirboni, (which means wild boar in the
Sardinian language) that is enclosed by two cliffs of red rocks, in the cracks of which
delicious sea urchins can be found. We strongly advise a visit to this beach. This stretch of
coast is not easy to reach from the land and it is little frequented by boats and fishermen. The
nearest inhabited centre that has a port (which is nearing completion) is
Villaputzu.
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